This is just a short but magical moment – leaving Kokrobite, we drove through Aplaku and over a hill before descending towards the motorway and the city. We’re driving at a normal pace, but still going over this hill feels like a rollercoaster. There’s no physical rise and fall, but the elation of suddenly popping out of bustling streets filled with children and motorbikes and women and men carrying snacks in bowls on their heads to sell to passing drivers, and taxis zooming past at breakneck paces, and chickens and dogs and goats is enough to make your stomach do a somersault. Driving over this hill, the feeling is akin to looking at the stars on a clear night in the mountains and trying to take in the infinite expanse of stars. Or rather, staring out at the white-capped waves on the beach at Kokrobite, surrounded by backflipping boys and girls running into the water fully clothed, and wondering, if you swam in a straight line, whether the next land you would hit would be Antarctica. It’s an exultant moment: seeing hundreds and hundreds of homes, shops, trees, advertisements and streets, each as vibrant as the last, extending forever into the horizon, before you again drop down into the highways of Accra.
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